Edge Of The River

CHRISTINE ELLIS

This rug is made by the unusual locker-needle hook technique. Unlike most other rag rug methods, the base is a single (mono) tapestry canvas, 5 holes to 2.5 cm ( 1 in). The abstract design of this rug was inspired by a river-bank, with rushes and leaves against a blue and white background. Other themes and design could be planned and developed using the same technique. Mainly cotton scraps have been used here, but many other materials are also appropriate. Locker hooking can be used for other articles as diverse as chair seats, cushions, handbags, wallhangings and articles of clothing.

136 x 76 cm (53.5 x 30 in)

Materials and equipment

• Pencil
• Drawing and graph paper
• 1142.5 x 81 cm (56 x 32 in) rug canvas, 5 holes to 2.5 cm (1 in)
• Thick waterproof felt-tip pen
• Thin card or cartridge paper
• Scissors
• Masking tape
• Double-knitting wool or rug yarn for the edges
• Rug needle
• 2-ply rug yarn or equivalent
• Locker-needle hook
• Assortment of cotton and jersey materials
• 2 pieces lining material, 44 cm (17.25 in) wide

Draw a pencil sketch of your planned design for reference, then plot out the basic repeat structural outline on to graph paper. This graph outline can then be transferred to the canvas with a felt-tip pen; follow the design graph-square by mesh-square for an accurate result. Use real leaves as a guide to make paper or card templates, if wished, or draw them freehand and then cut out. You will need two templates for each leaf shape. (You will work from the front of the piece with this technique).

Place the leaf-shaped templates on the canvas in desired positions and draw around them with a waterproof felt-tip pen. Overlap the templates to prepare for the shadow effects shown on the completed canvas.

Before beginning work, you need to decide how to finish the edges. If you are not sure what size you want your finished rug to be, stick masking tape over the edges of the canvas to stop it unravelling and to prevent material from catching.

If however, you are sure what size you want your rug to be, the edges can be secured now. Mitre all the corners of the hem, then using double-knitting wool or rug yarn and a rug needle, oversew three stitches over each corner. Then work an overlapping braid stitch all around. To do this, insert the needle from the back of the canvas to the front, move one hole to the left and bring, the yarn back to the original hole. Then move three holes to the left, back two, and continue in this way, working over the stitches which are reinforcing the corners.

Thread two strands of 2-ply rug yarn through the eye of the locker-needle hook. Then, cut strips of material about 2 cm (0.75 in) wide; straight or bias strips are equally successful. The finer the fabric, the wider the strip will have to be as the aim is to fill the holes and cover the canvas.

Holding a strip of cut material under the canvas in your left hand, dip the hook end of the locker-needle into a hole and catch and pull a small loop of material up through the canvas.

The reverse of the work shows how a hook is placed to pull up a loop of material. To ensure the loops are even and regular, keep the strip over the forefinger and pass it over the locker-needle hook, away from you.

Working from right to left, carry on making loops of material on the locker-needle hook and along the row, picking up a loop through each hole until there are ten or twelve loops on the hook. (In this design the leaves are worked in vertical and diagonal directions and the background is worked horizontally).

At the end of a strip, gently pull the threaded locker-needle end through the loops, which will then be ‘locked’ in place with the yarn. Continue with a new row of loops, pulling up the loops on to the locker-needle hook and ‘locking’ them with the same length of yarn. Start new material strips as necessary, when another colour may be chosen.

Unlike traditional hooking, all the ends of the fabric material are left on the back with this technique, as shown here. When the hooking is completed, trim the ends to 2 cm (0.75 in).

When either starting or finishing a new strand of yarn, leave the wool ends on the front of the rug. When several ends have accumulated, thread them through a blunt needle and run the yarn under or so loops to secure them.

Then clip off the remaining ends of yarn. As you proceed and the work becomes heavier, it is often more comfortable to have a small table in front of your chair, so that you can rest the bulk of the rug on the table and turn it to follow your usual working route from right to left.

Cut to pieces of lining fabric (closely woven cotton if the rug is to be used on carpet; heavier material such as sailcloth, if on a concrete or tiled floor). The length of each piece should be half the length of the rug plus 7.5 cm (3 in), and the same width, with a further 2.5 cm (1 in) on all sides for the hem allowance. On each piece turn down and hem the end that will form the placket or central gap in the rug. Turn in the raw edges of the lining fabric and slip-stitch one piece to three sides of the rug, leaving the hemmed edge in the centre free. Repeat with the second piece, slightly overlapping at the centre. This gap means that both the inside and the surface of the rug can be cleaned with a vacuum.

Garden Wallhanging

A N I T A F E L L

The latch hook is used to create this spectacular piece of work, though the hook is not used in the conventional manner, as the latch is actually taped out of the way. (Because fabric is being used rather than yarn, the pressure of the bunched-up material in the hole will keep the loops in place without the need for knot-tying with the latch hook). The flowers and foliage areas are clipped to make a contrast to the worked loops. Cotton is mainly used but other materials are also included.

This particular piece is being used as a rug, but it would also make a marvellous wallhanging. The design can be adapted to suit other subjects such as an open doorway. This rugs is life-size, but you can scale it down and omit a few rows of brickwork or reduce the area of foliage if you require something smaller.

142 x 107 cm (56 x 42 in)

Materials and Equipment

• Pencil
• Drawing paper
• 150 x 115 cm (59 x 45.25 in) rug canvas, gauge 3 holes to 2.5 cm (1 in)
• Thick felt-tip pen
• Latch hook
• Sticky tape
• Assortment of rags and fabric remnants in shades required
• Scissors
• 150 x 115 cm (59 x 45.25 in) backing fabric
• Pins
• Needle
• Strong sewing thread
• For wallhanging (optional) : 100 cm x 15 cm (39.5 x 6 in) calico or similarly strong fabric; wooden dowel or flat wooden bar, 105 cm (41.5 in) long; 2 large closed-ring picture-hanging screws; 210 cm (82.75 in) strong cord

Sketch out your design on paper as a guide, and then, using a thick felt-tip pen, draw the outlines of the bricks on the canvas. The mesh will help you to make the lines straight. You can then mark in the flowers and the edge of the foliage.

On both the shorter sides (top and bottom) of the design, turn under a 4-hole-wide strip, making sure that the holes line up exactly on both layers of the canvas mesh. (You will hook your strips through this double layer). On both the longer sides, leave a 4-hole-wide strip between the edge of your rug canvas and your design. If you want to create a wallhanging. However, turn under the long sides as described and leave the shorter ones open.

Wrap the latch on your hook out of the way with sticky tape. This part of the hook is not used in this project.

Cut or tear the fabric into strips. These can be any length but the width should vary according to the weight of the fabric. For example, lightweight material such as nylon should be cut in wider strips than thick woolen cloth. It is advisable to cut a short strip of every fabric first to check whether the width is correct. If it is too wide, it will distort, the canvas mesh, and if too narrow, it will not stay in place securely and the canvas mesh background will be visible.

Hold a strip of fabric in one hand under the canvas mesh at the back – you work with the front facing you – and with the other hand insert the hook down through one hole. (The advantage of using rug canvas is that you can see through it). Catch the end of the strip and pull it trough to the front, to a height of about 1 cm (0.5 in). Insert the hook into the next hole and catch up the strip of the fabric, ensuring that the whole width of the fabric is on the hook.

Pull the loop through, to a minimum height of 1 cm (0.5 in). Then insert your hook into the next hole and catch the strip further along its length. Pull through and repeat, making sure all your loops are similar size. Hook all the raw ends of the strips through to the front and cut them off evenly, so that they align with the loops, or with the surface of the pile.

Work along in the rows, in any direction, in a random mixture of terracotta, red and brown shades to build up the bricks, and in cream for the lines of mortar.

Check the back of your work regularly to make sure that the strip has been pulled through to the surface of the pile. The underside should show flat loops pulled taut against the canvas.

To make the plants stand out in three-dimensional relief from the wall and to add a contrast of texture, hook the foliage and flower loops slightly higher than the brickwork and shear off the top surface horizontally to make clipped tufts. If you prefer , you can insert your scissors into each loop and cut them individually. It is possible to sculpt the surface like topiary to create a variety of heights and texture.

When complete, turn the unworked edges on two sides under the back of the rug, using your fingers to press them down firmly.

Place the rug upside down on the floor and lay the backing fabric on top, making sure the grain of the fabric lies square to the canvas mesh. Working outwards from the centre of one of the sides worked right to the edge, pin the backing to the edge of the rug, turning under a hem of 4 cm (1.5 in) as you go. When you reach the corner, then work from the centre of the side at right angles to it, turning under and pinning the unworked 4-hole border of canvas mesh. Finish the other sides in the same way. Do not make the backing too taut as this would cause the edges of the rug to curl inwards, but check that the fabric is flat with no puckering. Slip-stitch the edge of the backing to the edge of the rug with strong thread.

If you are going to display your rug as a wallhanging, it is advisable to attach a fabric sleeve to the back. When complete, cut a piece of strong fabric such as calico, and hem the raw edges. Place this a 7 cm (2.75 in) from and parallel with the top edge of the rug. Slip-stitch this along both long sides, leaving the short edges open . As you sew, occasionally take the thread through the backing and secure it to the rug canvas for extra strength. A piece of wooden dowelling can then be inserted through the sleeve so that it protrudes equally at each end. Attach a closed-ring picture screw at each end and thread strong cord through these, keeping it fairly taut so that the method of hanging will be invisible from the front.

Lucky Black Cat

D E B B I E S I N I S K A

In this project a shuttle hook makes the loops. The result looks like a traditional hooked work, but the technique is much quicker once you have mastered the knack of working with this type of hook. The frame must be leant against a wall or door as the shuttle hook has to pierce through the hessian/burlap or sacking freely. Long strips of fabric are used, working from the reverse, and the material is cut much wider than in other methods of rug-making.

All types of materials may be used in this project, but stretchy jersey fabrics or old jumpers are favoured by many users of the shuttle hook. The technique is mainly used for making rugs and wallhangings. A nice ideas is to sprinkle dried lavender between the rug and its backing, for a lovely fragrance.

100 x 72 cm (39.5 x 28.5 in)

Materials and Equipment

• Pencil
• Drawing paper
• Sacking (a peanut sack was used for this project)
• Nail
• Strong thread (if needed)
• Large-eyed carpet needle
• Frame
• Strong string
• Tracing paper
• Piece of chalk
• Assortment of stretchy materials
• Shuttle hook
• Latex/PVA glue
• Sacking or hessian/burlap for lining, to the dimensions of the finished rug
• Carpet binding

Sketch out the design on drawing paper, as a guide.

Unpick the sacking with a nail or needle, if necessary, carefully removing any threads that hold it together.

Sew the sacking firmly to the binding on both ends of the frame using strong thread and a carpet needle. You can reuse the thread unpicked from the sacking, if wished.

Assemble the frame, stretching the sacking tautly between the two end of the frame. Then, using strong string, lace the sacking firmly to the side bars.

You will need to reverse the design, as a shuttle hook works from the back of the base material. Trace the sketch on to tracing paper, then flip this over and press over the lines firmly on to a clean sheet of paper. Go over the impressed outline with a pencil to create a mirror-image. Then, transfer the reversed design to the sacking. If you are not confident about scaling-up freehand, draw a matching grid pattern on both the sketch and the sacking, then carefully copy the outline on to the larger background square-by-square with chalk.

Cut your material on the straight into strips at least 1 cm (0.5 in) wide, and thread the shuttle hook as shown.

Set the frame so that it is leaning securely against a wall. Sit on a low stool, and holding your shuttle hook with both hands and leaving the end of the material free, slide one part of the shuttle hook into the sacking.

Without removing the shuttle hook, slide the second half of the shuttle hook into the sacking.

This double movement of the shuttle hook produces a loop on the front of the sacking, as shown here.

Continue making this double movement, ‘walking’ the shuttle hook across the sacking.

Because of the width of the strips of material it is not necessary to keep the rows as close together as you would with traditional hooking. You can work in any direction.

When the design is completed remove the rug from the flame. Trim the hessian, allowing a 10 cm (4 in0 border for turning.

Lay the rug right-side down on the floor or table. Apply latex generously to the edges of the rug back, turning the sacking down over it.

Now stick the backing fabric on to the reverse of the rug, using latex to secure it around the edges. To neaten the edges, stick carpet binding around the edges with latex, mitring the corners. Press down firmly.

Prodded Diamond Rug

C H R I S T I N E B I R C H

Prodding, or proggy, is one of the most traditional methods of rag-making; many people remember rag rugs being made in this way in the past.

As short pieces of material are used in this method, even more scraps are needed than for a hooked rug. Traditionally, a dark border would generally be prodded all around the rug, reflecting the predominant colours of the clothes people wore then. Today, prodded rugs show much more imagination in their subtle combination of colours and fabrics.

Because the pile of prodded rugs is shaggy, designs are not as clearly defined as in other methods, but this is part of the charm. This method can also be used for seat covers and cushions.

87 x 52 cm (34.25 x 20.5 in)

Materials and Equipment

• Pencil
• Graph or drawing paper
• Ruler
• 99 x 60 cm (39 x 23.5 in) hessian/burlap or sacking
• Fine and medium felt-tip pen
• Sewing machine
• Strong thread
• Needle
• Thimble
• Frame with dowelling
• Scissors
• Assortment of materials
• Prodder

Draw the diamond design on graph or drawing paper as a reference guide.

Outline the dimensions of your rug on a piece of hessian, using a fine felt-tip pen; mark the corners and then drag the pen through two threads to join up the marks or use a ruler as a guide. Mark the diamond shapes on the hessian with a thicker felt-tip pen.

Using a sewing machine, run a zigzag stitch all around the edge of the hessian to prevent it from fraying. Using strong thread, tack a hem on both of the shorter edges, wide enough to take the dowelling which will hold the hessian in the frame. Insert the dowelling.

Guide each length of dowelling into the channel of the top and bottom frame pieces.

To make the work easier to handle, roll the surplus hessian over one edge of the frame; then push in the side pieces and stretch the hessian as tautly as possible.

Cut the chosen materials into pieces 2.5 cm ( 1 in) wide and 10 cm (4 in) long. You may prefer to do this piecemeal rather than cut up masses of small pieces all at once.

To remind you of where you want the various colours of your design to be, prod small pieces into the centre of each diamond shape.

Continue prodding to fill in the shapes outlined on the hesssian. Make distinctive borders between the diamonds with a dark plain colour if liked.

Remove the completed rug from the frame, turn under the surplus hessian to make a generous hem on the reverse of the rug, and slip-stitch down, being sure to miter and stitch down the corners.