Garden Wallhanging

A N I T A F E L L

The latch hook is used to create this spectacular piece of work, though the hook is not used in the conventional manner, as the latch is actually taped out of the way. (Because fabric is being used rather than yarn, the pressure of the bunched-up material in the hole will keep the loops in place without the need for knot-tying with the latch hook). The flowers and foliage areas are clipped to make a contrast to the worked loops. Cotton is mainly used but other materials are also included.

This particular piece is being used as a rug, but it would also make a marvellous wallhanging. The design can be adapted to suit other subjects such as an open doorway. This rugs is life-size, but you can scale it down and omit a few rows of brickwork or reduce the area of foliage if you require something smaller.

142 x 107 cm (56 x 42 in)

Materials and Equipment

• Pencil
• Drawing paper
• 150 x 115 cm (59 x 45.25 in) rug canvas, gauge 3 holes to 2.5 cm (1 in)
• Thick felt-tip pen
• Latch hook
• Sticky tape
• Assortment of rags and fabric remnants in shades required
• Scissors
• 150 x 115 cm (59 x 45.25 in) backing fabric
• Pins
• Needle
• Strong sewing thread
• For wallhanging (optional) : 100 cm x 15 cm (39.5 x 6 in) calico or similarly strong fabric; wooden dowel or flat wooden bar, 105 cm (41.5 in) long; 2 large closed-ring picture-hanging screws; 210 cm (82.75 in) strong cord

Sketch out your design on paper as a guide, and then, using a thick felt-tip pen, draw the outlines of the bricks on the canvas. The mesh will help you to make the lines straight. You can then mark in the flowers and the edge of the foliage.

On both the shorter sides (top and bottom) of the design, turn under a 4-hole-wide strip, making sure that the holes line up exactly on both layers of the canvas mesh. (You will hook your strips through this double layer). On both the longer sides, leave a 4-hole-wide strip between the edge of your rug canvas and your design. If you want to create a wallhanging. However, turn under the long sides as described and leave the shorter ones open.

Wrap the latch on your hook out of the way with sticky tape. This part of the hook is not used in this project.

Cut or tear the fabric into strips. These can be any length but the width should vary according to the weight of the fabric. For example, lightweight material such as nylon should be cut in wider strips than thick woolen cloth. It is advisable to cut a short strip of every fabric first to check whether the width is correct. If it is too wide, it will distort, the canvas mesh, and if too narrow, it will not stay in place securely and the canvas mesh background will be visible.

Hold a strip of fabric in one hand under the canvas mesh at the back – you work with the front facing you – and with the other hand insert the hook down through one hole. (The advantage of using rug canvas is that you can see through it). Catch the end of the strip and pull it trough to the front, to a height of about 1 cm (0.5 in). Insert the hook into the next hole and catch up the strip of the fabric, ensuring that the whole width of the fabric is on the hook.

Pull the loop through, to a minimum height of 1 cm (0.5 in). Then insert your hook into the next hole and catch the strip further along its length. Pull through and repeat, making sure all your loops are similar size. Hook all the raw ends of the strips through to the front and cut them off evenly, so that they align with the loops, or with the surface of the pile.

Work along in the rows, in any direction, in a random mixture of terracotta, red and brown shades to build up the bricks, and in cream for the lines of mortar.

Check the back of your work regularly to make sure that the strip has been pulled through to the surface of the pile. The underside should show flat loops pulled taut against the canvas.

To make the plants stand out in three-dimensional relief from the wall and to add a contrast of texture, hook the foliage and flower loops slightly higher than the brickwork and shear off the top surface horizontally to make clipped tufts. If you prefer , you can insert your scissors into each loop and cut them individually. It is possible to sculpt the surface like topiary to create a variety of heights and texture.

When complete, turn the unworked edges on two sides under the back of the rug, using your fingers to press them down firmly.

Place the rug upside down on the floor and lay the backing fabric on top, making sure the grain of the fabric lies square to the canvas mesh. Working outwards from the centre of one of the sides worked right to the edge, pin the backing to the edge of the rug, turning under a hem of 4 cm (1.5 in) as you go. When you reach the corner, then work from the centre of the side at right angles to it, turning under and pinning the unworked 4-hole border of canvas mesh. Finish the other sides in the same way. Do not make the backing too taut as this would cause the edges of the rug to curl inwards, but check that the fabric is flat with no puckering. Slip-stitch the edge of the backing to the edge of the rug with strong thread.

If you are going to display your rug as a wallhanging, it is advisable to attach a fabric sleeve to the back. When complete, cut a piece of strong fabric such as calico, and hem the raw edges. Place this a 7 cm (2.75 in) from and parallel with the top edge of the rug. Slip-stitch this along both long sides, leaving the short edges open . As you sew, occasionally take the thread through the backing and secure it to the rug canvas for extra strength. A piece of wooden dowelling can then be inserted through the sleeve so that it protrudes equally at each end. Attach a closed-ring picture screw at each end and thread strong cord through these, keeping it fairly taut so that the method of hanging will be invisible from the front.